Measure a stump straight across the cut face at its widest point at ground level, root flare included, and count how many stumps there are. Then take two photos, the stump with something beside it for scale and the way in, measure the narrowest gate, and send them with your town.
Why five minutes of measuring is worth it
A quote for stump grinding comes down to a short list: how wide, how many, how hard to reach, how deep and what happens to the grindings. If those are clear, a real number can usually be given without anyone driving out to look. If they are vague, the answer has to be vague too. You do not need special tools. A tape measure, a phone and a walk from the street to the stump will do it. The steps below are in the order that matters, so if you only do the first three you have still done most of the job.
Measure across the cut face, at the widest point
Lay the tape flat across the top of the stump, through the middle, and read the widest distance you can find. Then look down. Most stumps spread at the base into a root flare, and the flare is part of what gets ground. So measure again at ground level, from the outside of the flare on one side to the outside on the other, and send that larger number. Give it in inches. If the stump is oval or lopsided, give the long way and the short way. If big roots run along the surface and you want them gone too, say how far out they go.
Width matters more than height
People often describe a stump by how tall it is. Height is the lesser number. The cutting wheel works across the face, so the job is set by how much wood there is from side to side. A tall, narrow stump comes down quickly, and a low, wide one does not. Still, mention the height if the stump stands more than a foot or so above the ground, or if it was cut on a slope and one side is much higher than the other. The full list of what moves a price is in the guide to what stump grinding costs.
Count the stumps, all of them
Walk the whole property before you send anything. Count every stump you want gone, including the small ones along the fence and the old one behind the shed you stopped noticing years ago. Give the width of the biggest and a rough size for the rest: three about a foot across, two small ones. Several stumps in one visit make more sense than one at a time, because the machine is already there and set up. If a neighbor has a stump too, mention it. And say what kind of tree it was if you know, since oak and pine do not grind alike.
Two photos: the stump, and the way in
The first photo is the stump with something beside it for scale. A tape laid across the top is ideal. A shovel, a boot or a five-gallon bucket works. Stand back far enough to show the ground around it and anything close: a wall, a fence, a drive, a bed. The second photo is the way in, taken from where a truck and trailer would park, looking toward the stump. If the route turns a corner or passes through a gate, take one more from there. Daylight helps. A photo of the way in is worth more than a paragraph describing it.
Measure the narrowest gate
The grinder is tracked and narrow and fits standard yard gates. The number that matters is the tightest point on the route, and that is usually the gate. Measure the clear opening between the posts, not the width of the gate panel, and allow for the latch and hinges if they stick out. Do the same for any pinch point: between the house and a fence, past an air conditioning unit, between two trees. Send that number in inches with your photos. Note steps, a steep bank or soft ground along the way as well. There is more on this under tight access stump grinding.
Details that sharpen the number
A few short lines save a second round of questions. Say what is going over the spot: lawn, sod, a bed, a new tree or something built, because that sets the depth. Say whether you want the grindings raked back into the hole, left in a pile or hauled off. Point out anything buried nearby that you know about: irrigation, lighting cable, an invisible dog fence, a septic lid or lines. Public utility lines are located through 811 before grinding near them, but 811 does not mark private lines. And mention old fence wire, nails or concrete in or against the stump.
How to send it
Put it in one message: your town, how many stumps, the width of the biggest across the flare, the gate width, what you want done with the grindings, and the photos. Email it to jbdumpsters@outlook.com, or call (828) 574-4474 and talk it through. You can also start with the form on the contact page and follow up with the photos by email. Jordan quotes every job himself, estimates are free, and the price is agreed before the work, not after. If something about the stump is hard to describe, send the photo anyway and say so.
Photos From Real Jobs
Common Questions
Do I measure a stump at the top or at the ground?
Both, and send the bigger number. Measure across the cut face through the middle, then measure again at ground level from one outside edge of the root flare to the other. The flare is part of what gets ground, so the ground-level width is usually the one that counts.
What should be in the photo of a stump I send for a quote?
The whole stump, the ground around it, and something for scale: a tape laid across the top, a shovel, a boot or a bucket. Include anything close to it, such as a fence, wall, drive or bed. Then add a second photo of the way in from the street.
How wide does my gate need to be for the stump grinder?
Standard yard gates are normally wide enough for the tracked grinder. Measure the clear opening between the posts in inches and send it with your photos. Where a gate is unusually tight, a fence panel sometimes has to come out and go back, and you would be asked first.
What to Do Next
That is the whole list: width, count, two photos, the gate and your town. Send it to jbdumpsters@outlook.com or call (828) 574-4474, and you will usually have a real number without a site visit.